Food Plots for Wildlife, Part 1

Seven bucks, still in velvet, slipped out of the woods and began foraging among the grasses in the field. It would be just a matter of weeks until they could wonder why they used to be such good buddies. But, for now, they were happy—they were in a lush patch of food, completely oblivious to the small group peering at them from a distant window.

Occasionally one reared up and slashed hooves at another, apparently trying to communicate that he was the boss in this field. Sometimes that caused an argument, and he was met with a face-full of hooves in return, or a sound smack on the back.

And who doesn’t delight to see a flock of turkeys, pecking for grasshoppers while ever watchful with those keen eyes?

Maybe it’s the songbirds, clinging to sunflowers, pecking seeds from the bowed heads, that you enjoy.

If you are like me, it is all of the above. Why not plant for wildlife and increase the opportunities to see these things?

Maybe you are thinking you don’t have deer or turkeys to feed. While that is true for many, probably all of us can find ways to plant food for birds, and they can be very entertaining too.

Food plots can be all sizes and shapes. Soil types vary, as well as growing seasons and moisture. So, no one recipe works for everyone.

Do your research

Does your chosen spot need to have trees cleared away? Is adequate sunshine able to get in to your plants? Is there sufficient moisture, or the option for irrigation?

Do a soil test

Depending on the size of your food plot, take a sample or samples of soil for testing to your local extension office. Often this is free. Learn what is recommended to amend the soil for your intended crop.

Prepare the soil

We like to work our dirt with a disk, and then allow the weeds and thistles to sprout for several weeks. We then disk a second time before planting our crop. This takes out a lot of the weed/thistle pressure.

Our goal is to provide taste and nutritional value to attract deer, regardless of what other food sources are available. Usually we plant a mixture rather than just one thing. And the mixture rotates from year to year. Our boys like a three-year rotation plan for our plots.

Some plant characteristics

White and red clover: These are popular legumes, have good food value, and last several years. They are less valuable after frost.

Birdsfoot trefoil (type of clover): More drought-resistant than most other plants, likes low pH, long-lasting, low-maintenance. It is slow-growing, hard to establish, expensive up front, and not as attractive as some other types of clover. It is primarily used in drought-prone areas.

Alfalfa: Has excellent food value and is long-lasting, drought tolerant, hard to establish, needs weed and weevil control, may need lots of nitrogen and potash, and requires high pH soil. There is less interest in alfalfa after frost.

Corn: Cheap; good winter food source; provides cover, and fat and carbohydrate content. It needs fertile soil, uses up a lot of nutrients, requires high pH, and weeds can be problematic. It is low in protein.

Chicory: Drought resistant, withstands low pH, and is a perennial. It uses lots of nitrogen.

Turnips and radishes: These are drought-resistant, withstand low pH, are protein-rich, and cheap to plant. The leaves get sweeter after frost, plus the roots are a good late-season food source. These need lots of nitrogen. They should be planted no more than two years in a row. Sometimes it takes deer several years to develop a taste for them.

Soybeans: A legume high in protein and fat content, can tolerate drought and low pH. It is excellent for attracting deer at most stages. It can be killed by over-browsing when it is young.